Torsten Curdt writing about travel

Cuba - It's complicated

2007-03-06T00:00:00Z

Romance vs Reality

The general picture of Cuba is a bit too romantic. Don’t you also think of friendly people in beautiful but worn down buildings? Music, cigars, rum and a little “viva la revolucion” with some “Buena Vista Social Club” in the background. Well, some of that is true …unfortunately some is not.

I have traveled in many poor countries. Never have I been tricked and scammed as much as in Cuba. And given the economic hardship I even have some sympathy. But what I really hated is that it made us distrust everyone.

This was true for the first visit in 2007 as well as the return in 2018. During my first time we met a girl who had lived in Cuba about 10 years earlier. She couldn’t stand the new face of Cuba so much that she was trying to change her flight to leave early. I think that speaks a thousand words.

Still I have made some genuine connections and met some very nice people. And the country is picturesque beyond words. Cuba is a mixed bag. Go with open eyes and realistic expectations.

Money

Cuba has never been cheap for tourists. Going for dinner in Berlin or in Habana? Not sure what is more expensive.

For years Cuba had a painful dual currency system. CUC for tourists, CUP for locals. The CUC was abolished in January 2021. Now there is only the Cuban Peso (CUP). But it’s not simple either. Since December 2025 Cuba has three official exchange rates. The one you want is the floating rate at Cadecas (exchange offices) which sits around 1 EUR = 545 CUP. The informal street rate is slightly better at around 1 EUR = 560 CUP.

Whatever you do: don’t use ATMs. They give a fixed rate of roughly 1 EUR = 130 CUP. That’s over 4x worse than the Cadeca rate. If you need cash from a card, do a cash advance at a Cadeca or bank instead. Same card, same machine, vastly better rate. This wasn’t the case in 2008 - it seems to be the case now.

Cash is still king. Bring EUR in small bills. No US-issued cards work. No Wise, Revolut, or Amex. European Visa or Mastercard might work but don’t count on it. MLC prepaid cards can be bought at airport exchange offices for use in “dollar stores.”

Basically: bring enough cash for your whole trip. Treat everything else as backup.

Getting Online

During my first visits there was essentially no internet. Things have changed. Cuba now has over 1,200 public WiFi hotspots via ETECSA, the state telecom. You can buy NAUTA WiFi cards at ETECSA offices (1 hour costs about 25 CUP). But the connection is slow, unreliable and censored.

The better option in 2026 is an eSIM. Buy it before you leave and install it at home. You cannot easily download anything once in Cuba. Same goes for a VPN. Install it before departure. VPN download sites are blocked in Cuba and you will need one. The US embargo blocks the Viazul bus booking site, PayPal, banking sites and more.

Funny story: I had an AirBNB booking for some onwards travel. I needed to send a message to the host. I had to wait until the store opened to buy a WiFi card. And while I got some slow internet I could still not reach him until I was in Mexico. Why? Unfortunately my AirBNB account was secured via Facebook - which was blocked in Cuba. Since then I am done with SSOs. Yet another reason the login with Facebook/Google/… buttons are just not worth it.

Also download Maps.me with the Cuba offline map, Google Translate with the Spanish offline pack and WhatsApp (the main communication tool in Cuba).

Sleeping

Casa particulares are the way to go. Licensed private homes that rent rooms to tourists. Look for the blue triangle on the door. They must provide air conditioning, hot water, TV and a fridge.

Expect to pay around 15-25 EUR per night for a double room. Breakfast is about 5 EUR per person. Dinner around 15 EUR and often the best food you will find. Despite what guidebooks used to say don’t expect a feast everywhere. The white bread at most places is not much more than crispy air. Only one casa we stayed at had truly exceptional food.

The classic casa-to-casa recommendation method sounds great in theory. Your current host calls ahead and arranges a room at your next destination. In practice it often doesn’t work. Too many hosts recommend casas to help out their friends, not to help you. So you get shown dark little cubbyholes and better know how to say no.

The real problem is availability. The good casas are marvelous gems …that book out 2-3 weeks ahead. Plan accordingly. For booking platforms: Airbnb has payment problems in Cuba since 2025 and unexplained cancellations are common. Homestay.com charges zero fees to Cuban owners so more money stays with the host.

One more thing. Ask your casa about backup power. Blackouts are daily across Cuba in 2026. The better casas have invested in solar panels or generators. Also leave behind unused toiletries and supplies when you go. Shop shelves are empty.

Getting Around

Getting around Cuba is not easy. Viazul is the tourist bus network connecting the major cities. Air-conditioned, with toilets. Book online before arriving if you can. The website is blocked from within Cuba without a VPN and tickets now require card payment. Seats sell out so book a few days ahead. Your casa host can sometimes help.

Renting a car sounds like the obvious alternative. At least outside the cities. But I would not want to drive in Habana. And street signs are terrible everywhere. Off the main roads you basically have to pick up hitchhikers (very common in Cuba) to find your way. We did not always feel comfortable with that. Plus the rental is expensive.

Colectivos (shared taxis) and private drivers are another option. Use licensed ones. They are more reliable and the money goes directly to families.

In 2026 travel even slower than usual. Fuel shortages are real. Mexico has paused oil shipments, the US is confiscating tankers bound for Cuba. Allow buffer days.

Beaches

Maybe I am spoiled but the Cuban beaches were a little disappointing. Few cities are close to the beach. The good ones are resort-style. Varadero is the tourist trap.

From the guidebook Cienfuegos sounded like a great alternative. Close to a nice city with beach and diving. Too bad that even locals rarely swim directly in Cienfuegos. They dispose wastewater into the ocean. The actual beach people mean is “Rancho Luna”, 15km away. Nice but not spectacular. You need a taxi or get lucky with the local bus. I went diving there. Can’t recommend the operator but the diving itself was quite nice.

Playa Giron in the Bay of Pigs was probably the nicest beach we found. The guidebook dissed it as dirty and full of dog poo. Seriously? It was lovely. The area is remote and not exactly welcoming but the beach and diving are good. Don’t expect much from the invasion museum though.

The final disappointment was Playa Ancon. Supposedly the 2nd best beach after Varadero. Maybe we caught a windy day so the water wasn’t clear. But in general we weren’t impressed. We gave up looking for beach relaxation after that.

La Habana

Stay in La Habana Vieja, the old part of town. Centro is more lively at night but Vieja is the better base. Agree on a taxi price from the airport beforehand. Expect to overpay regardless.

Book your casa well in advance. Every good one we found was booked out for weeks. Casa Humberto looked cosy with supposedly good food. Couldn’t get in. Casa Lourdes had great hosts. Couldn’t get in either.

One casa we did stay at near the Floridita (the Hemingway bar) looked nice on the internet but turned out to be the worst hosts we met. We booked a room with private bath and had to share. They arranged a “private taxi” to the bus terminal to save us money. When we later took a proper taxi back we realized it wasn’t far at all and we’d been ripped off.

For a splurge dinner go to Paladar La Guarida. World-class food in a fantastic setting. Not cheap but probably the best meal we had in Cuba. Book well ahead.

When you are tired of walking through Vieja check out the courtyard of Hotel Florida. Surprisingly cheap sandwiches and good Mojitos.

Cienfuegos

A nice little town. The peninsula in the south feels a bit like a US suburb. The old town is UNESCO world heritage but frankly not that spectacular compared to Habana or Trinidad. Still worth a quick stop for the food and the colonial architecture.

If you can get a booking at Hostal Bahia you might want to stay longer. Probably the coolest casa we’ve seen during our trips. Huge gorgeous rooms in a big colonial house with garden and balcony overlooking the ocean.

Hostal Bahia

In 2018 Cienfuegos I was the starting point of a sailing trip. There are some charter fleets but I was joining a friend for a passage from Cienfuegos via Cayo Largo, Isla de la Juventud, Maria la Gorda, to Marina Gaviota Cabo San Antonio where we checked out to cross to Mexico.

Trinidad

The highlight. Just like Cienfuegos Trinidad is UNESCO world heritage and when you walk through the streets of this little town you know why. It was the city we enjoyed most. If only fewer tour groups were around.

The casa hunt here followed the usual pattern. The recommended Casa Escobar sounded better on paper. Casa Arandia with its huge colonial patio was beautiful. Booked out of course. Through the recommendation network we ended up at Casa Mercedes Mauri which was one of the best places we stayed at. Seems like it’s no longer around unfortunately. A colonial house with a nice patio, private bath and the only place where we got proper bread for breakfast. The resident parrot was just funny, calling us when it was bored.

For dinner go to the paladares “Sol y Son” and “Estela”. Both where really great - back then at least.

Near Trinidad there is a nice waterfall. We took a horse riding tour to get there. I had a very competitive horse always trying to be first. Quite funny. To reach the waterfall they charge you money …and they check again when you arrive at the falls. Classic.

Santa Clara

Not very spectacular. We managed to get there when the one thing I wanted to see (the Che museum) was closed. Better check the opening times. Casa Florida Center looked fantastic. One of the best we’ve seen. Couldn’t get a room of course. Again: book way in advance.

Viva Fidel

What to Bring

Cuba requires more preparation than most destinations. Bring enough cash in USD or EUR for your entire trip in small bills. Your prescription medicines, sunscreen, insect repellent, basic toiletries. Shops do not reliably stock any of this.

A power bank and a headlamp for the daily blackouts. An eSIM installed before departure. A VPN installed before departure. Offline maps downloaded before departure. Snacks for when food variety runs out.

Final Thought

It’s hard to squeeze multiple trips into one article. And this probably sounds more negative than intended. Cuba is genuinely complicated travel. Not a beach vacation. Not a budget destination. But the country is unlike anywhere else. Genuine connections happen. And just the opportunity to take pictures was worth it every time. I hope this helps someone avoid some annoyances and have a better trip.

Pelion - The Hidden Gem of Greece

2007-08-12T00:00:00Z

Pelion is a wooded peninsula in central Greece, jutting into the Aegean Sea south of Volos. The eastern coast drops steeply from forested mountains to clear water. The western side faces the calmer Gulf of Pagasai with gentler terrain.

What makes it different from the islands: you get excellent beaches without a ferry. You get cool mountain air even in August. You get stone villages with centuries of history. And almost no mass tourism.

We drove here from Thessaloniki in August 2007 during a heat wave. The news was full of wildfires. We even passed one on the way down. But the moment we entered the mountains everything turned green. Temperatures stayed around 25-30°C with a light breeze. It felt like a completely separate climate zone.

Getting There

The gateway is Volos. It sits roughly 330 km from Athens (4-5 hours by car) and 215 km from Thessaloniki (about 2.5 hours).

KTEL buses connect Athens to Volos. From Volos, local KTEL buses reach the main villages but service is infrequent. Renting a car is the most practical option for exploring properly. Roads are narrow and winding through the mountains, but manageable.

Nea Anchialos Airport (VOL), 30 km from Volos, handles seasonal charter flights from European cities in summer.

The Sporades islands (Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos) sit just off the northern tip of the peninsula. Fast ferries connect them to Volos. Combining Pelion with a Sporades leg is easy.

The Peninsula

Pelion divides into three zones worth knowing before you plan.

Eastern Pelion faces the Aegean. Mountains drop steeply to the sea. Dense forests of chestnut and oak cover the slopes. The best beaches are here. Villages like Tsagarada, Mouresi, and Zagora sit at altitude and stay genuinely cool even in midsummer.

Western Pelion faces the Gulf of Pagasai. Terrain is gentler with more olive groves. Makrinitsa and Portaria sit just above Volos and have the most tourist infrastructure. The beaches on this side are calmer but less dramatic.

Southern Pelion is the quietest zone. Villages like Argalasti and Milina see few visitors. The small island of Paleo Trikeri is car-free and reachable only by boat from Milina.

Villages

All Pelion villages share a characteristic look: stone houses with slate roofs, carved wooden balconies, Byzantine churches, sculpted stone fountains, and cobblestone paths. Many of these villages were prosperous trading centres in the 18th and 19th centuries, with unusual autonomy under Ottoman rule. The wealth shows in the architecture.

Mouresi is a small village on the eastern coast, about 500 metres above the sea in dense forest. Almost no foreign tourists. Greeks clearly know about it, though.

Tsagarada is the best-known eastern village. The central square has a plane tree reportedly over 1,000 years old. Worth a stop just for a coffee under it.

Zagora is one of the larger villages, known for its historic libraries and the local Firiki apple variety. Even under Ottoman rule this area had a culture of education.

Makrinitsa on the western side is called the “balcony of Pelion” for its views over Volos and the gulf. More visited and more developed than the eastern villages.

On the way back to Volos we stopped in Milies, Vizitsa, and Agios Giorgios. All beautiful and worth a stop if you have time. The restored Pelion Railway runs between Ano Lechonia and Milies on weekends. A narrow-gauge steam train through the countryside is a worthwhile excursion.

Pelion is also the mythological home of the Centaurs. Chiron, the wise centaur, tutored Achilles and Jason on these slopes. The ancient city of Iolcos near Volos is where Jason gathered the Argonauts before setting off for the Golden Fleece.

Beaches

The eastern Aegean coast has some of the best beaches in mainland Greece. Frankly speaking the clear water can rival the beaches all around the world.

Fakistra is the most remarkable. White pebbles, turquoise water, rock formations on all sides. No road access. You reach it by a 20-minute path down through the forest. No facilities, no sunbeds. Two sea caves on the northern side contain an old hidden school and a small church. Some publications have placed it among the most beautiful beaches in the world.

Mylopotamos is larger, with a natural rock arch splitting the beach into sections. Also reached on foot (about 20 minutes down). Sunbeds and a restaurant are available here. Less isolated than Fakistra but still excellent.

Damouchari is a small fishing village with a port and a separate pebble beach reachable by path. Part of Mamma Mia (2008) was filmed here.

Agios Ioannis is the main organized beach on the eastern coast. Sunbeds, water sports, cafes, and hotels right next to the water. Good for families or a more relaxed day.

We also liked Plaka, which is easy to reach by car. Limnionas needs a jeep or a boat. Our rental Twingo was not up to the task.

If you want quieter beaches, avoid the first two weeks of August.

Food

Start your time in Volos, even if only for one evening.

Volos has a tradition unlike anywhere else in Greece: Tsipouradika. These are restaurants where each round of tsipouro (a pomace spirit, similar to grappa) automatically arrives with a different small plate of meze. You order drinks. The food comes without ordering. The tradition started with Asia Minor Greek refugees who settled here in 1922. One “25th” (a 50ml bottle) per person is the standard unit.

In Pelion, the dish to try is Spetzofai: local pork sausage slow-cooked with peppers and tomato. Served widely and genuinely good. Kopanisti Volou is a spicy orange cheese dip with garlic and tomato. The local Firiki Apple is worth seeking out fresh or as preserves.

In Mouresi, Kafestiato at the top of the village was the best meal of our entire two weeks. Ovaggeanz near the Silk Store was also good and popular with locals. Aganitos further down the hill has more ambiance. Even the restaurant at the village square was decent.

Nights start late in Greece. Dinner before 9pm is unusual.

Accommodation

Most rooms in Pelion sit in the €100-160 per night range by now. Higher-end guesthouses and boutique hotels push €180-220. Budget options exist but are limited, especially in the smaller eastern villages.

The Silk Store in Mouresi was a nicely converted stone house with blue doors. The owner English and very helpful for organizing trips and onward accommodation. Rooms with sea views. Unfortunately it seems it’s no longer around.

The Bali apartments nearby offered a quieter self-catering option with good views. Better value for families or longer stays. But again - no longer around.

The good smaller guesthouses fill up weeks ahead in peak season. Book early. February and October are the cheapest months. Outside July and August prices drop significantly.

Hiking

Pelion has some of the best hiking trails in mainland Greece. The ancient kalderimi paths, stone-paved donkey tracks, connect villages and orchards across the peninsula. Multi-day routes walking the full length of the peninsula are available, some with luggage transfers between guesthouses. The highest point is Mt Pelion at 1,610 metres.

Winter

Pelion works in winter too. The Agriolefkes Ski Center near Hania operates when there is snow. The stone villages look completely different under winter conditions and many guesthouses stay open for ski weekends.

When to Go

Spring (April to June): Lush, mild, very few crowds. Best for hiking.

Summer (July and August): Beach season. Peak prices and crowds. Book accommodation early.

Autumn (September and October): Often the best time. Warm enough to swim, quieter, harvest season.

Winter (December to February): Quiet, some places close. Good for skiing and an atmospheric village stay.

Final Thought

Pelion stays off most foreign travel radars. Greeks go there. Outsiders mostly don’t. It is one of those places that rewards arriving without too many expectations. The beaches are genuinely great. The villages are genuinely beautiful. The food is genuinely interesting. And it is all right there on the mainland without a ferry, a budget airline, or a tourist strip in sight. It’s been a while now. But it feels like it’s time to go again.

Bali - Island of Gods

2008-09-21T00:00:00Z

Being just on the door step to Australia, it’s not exactly a short trip from Europe. But it was well worth the long way.

Before You Go

Of course the visa situation depends on your passport and regulations change. For us it wasn’t more than a visa on arrival. Just check the officals website.

You’ll also need to fill the arrival card within 3 days before arrival. And there’s now a tourism levy of 150,000 IDR (around 8 EUR) that you need pay. Keep the QR code on your phone and print a backup copy. Don’t pay airport “helpers” to do it for you.

Arriving in Kuta

We arrived on Saturday night late at 10pm and we had nothing booked at all. But just as research suggested this wasn’t a problem at all. We just took a cab to Poppies Lane in Kuta. Plenty of very reasonable priced (not to say cheap) hotels there. We ended staying at the Masa Inn with rooms starting around 400,000 IDR per night (about 22 EUR). It’s conveniently located only a short walk from Kuta beach with all its clubs and parties. Since we are not fans of El Arenal type entertainment we just stayed for the night and left in the morning for Ubud.

Transportation

When we left Germany we planned to rent a car to have a little more freedom to get around. During the taxi ride from the airport I suddenly wasn’t so sure anymore whether I really want to drive in Bali. Traffic rules that are seen more as suggestions made us hold onto the seats a couple of times. In retrospect it would have probably been OK once outside Kuta.

Renting a car with driver is quite a common way to get around all over Bali. “Taxi?” was probably the most heard word on the street. So we ended up hiring a driver to bring us to Ubud. Essentially having a chauffeur I found a little strange - but it gave us the opportunity to relax and see much more on the way.

If you do decide to get a rental car I would suggest to get it in Kuta. There is much competition and prices are lower. These days you’ve also got ride-hailing apps like Gojek and Grab for shorter trips. But be aware of faulty charges added on by the drivers.

Scooter rental runs about 60,000-120,000 IDR per day (3-7 EUR), while a private driver for a full day is typically 500,000-750,000 IDR (27-41 EUR). If you rent a scooter, make absolutely sure your insurance covers it and wear a helmet.

Shopping in Ubud

Our expectations were quite high for this little town at the foot of the mountains. Laid back in the lush greens. It’s called the spiritual center of Bali. And while this still may be the case, it wasn’t really that obvious for us to find. There are nice restaurants, cafes and temples. But the word we ended up associating with Ubud was “shopping” much more than “spirituality”.

We tried to get a room at a hotel overlooking the rice fields which is supposed to be very nice. Unfortunately they were all booked out. Maybe one of the reasons that our impression was much more touristy was that we so ended up staying just off Monkey Forest Road at the Sagitarius Inn (for about 30 EUR per night).

That said, the Ubud market is quite an experience. Be sure to show your best haggling skills. Rumors say that the bags you get are color coded. They tell the next seller that (if black) you are no fool or (if red) you are easy money. Be aware that locals usually don’t go there because starting prices are very very high (in balinese measures at least). Well, how is the stupid tourist supposed to know? For us it’s still cheap. But locals always told us: “Please haggle!!” So not just do it for you - but also for them.

Go early (before 9am) if you can, and walk through once before buying anything. The Ubud Art Market is the classic spot. For something different, Threads of Life has beautiful textiles at fixed prices and feels more like a gallery.

Haggle with a smile, don’t be rude - the official visitor guidelines even mention this.

Money

Talking about money we found it best to bring cash. Changing at registered traders is still the way to go. Count your notes slowly - if someone tries to rush you, stop. Exchange rates float but figure roughly 18,500 IDR to 1 EUR as a reference point.

If you change at the hotel it might be less. On credit card transactions you quite often have a 3% surcharge (on top of what your credit card company will charge you for international use of course). Use ATMs attached to banks for best rates.

While you can also spend big money in Bali you can get away with a very decent double room and dinner for two without breaking the bank.

Gaia Oasis

We stayed in Ubud for 2 nights. Then took a driver for the trip through the mountains to the Gaia Oasis in Tejakula on the north coast of Bali. We found this little resort during our research from Germany. We called them up from Ubud and were lucky they still had rooms available. When we arrived we didn’t really know what to expect. Tejakula is a just small village. The driver dropped of in front and we started walking down this little path. Past very simple shacks and rural houses with chickens in front. Just when we became a little skeptical the path opened up and we arrived at the resort situated directly at the beach. When they showed us our bungalow we were blown away.

All bungalows are only a few more meters from the beach. Their baths are half outside. Each one has its own style. They are clean and it was the best place I ever stayed at. The staff is really friendly and food is good. It’s the perfect place to relax.

A few things you have to be aware of though: the beach is black and rocky - as most of the northern Bali coastline. Snorkeling is not particular fantastic at the house reef. But I am spoiled and it was still fun. The only real annoyance we found is that you really don’t want to book a driver or change money at the resort. I hope this has changed since.

There also is the original sister resort in the mountains. It’s only a 10 minute drive. It’s more rural. Also has gorgeous houses and a great salt water pool overlooking the Tejakula area and the ocean. But at the end of the dry season it’s rather brownish around. Probably a magical place after the wet season.

So if you have 10 days you want to spend relaxing in Bali the Gaia Oasis comes highly recommended. The beach bungalows (“Pantai”) running about 1,500,000 IDR per night (around 81 EUR) and the mountain property (“Abasan”) around 1,200,000 IDR per night (around 65 EUR).

I just found out that they no longer offer the free yoga classes we had. Which is a shame. It was one of the best classes and locations I ever had. But the spa still seems to be going strong and is also very recommended.

As I wanted to do some diving we also had a look at the Pondok Sari resort - which is more in the north-west of Bali. But when we had a look we were quite disappointed. So instead of moving quarters we asked the driver to brings us back to the Gaia Oasis. He laughed and the staff at the Gaia Oasis also gave us a big smile when we returned.

I traveled to the Alam Anda for diving instead.

Diving

The Alam Anda is located only a 10 minute drive south of the Gaia Oasis. The Alam Anda has a Werner Lau dive base. While it’s also a nice resort (much nicer than Pondok Sari - but also much more expensive) I would still prefer to stay at the Gaia Oasis and commute every day for the diving. If you take a bemo (public transport) it’s really cheap.

For the first dive I joined a group of intro divers on a trip to the USS Liberty in Tulamben. The introduction for the newbies was shockingly poor. I did my best to help out there. For the dive I had my own guide and the dive was OK. Unfortunately not the best conditions and it got crowded soon.

Later dives I did with the people from the Alam Anda dive base. Their house reef is nice. Good for at least a couple of dives. I also used the opportunity to get my Nitrox certification and finished that off with a diving trip to Nusa Penida. 2.5h by bus and 1h by speed boat. But all was well organized.

The first dive was at Manta Point. Visibility was not good. Unfortunately only the other group saw a Manta for only a few seconds and then it disappeared into the blue. When we surfaced I wasn’t really surprised. 10 boats times roughly 6 divers. You do the math. The second dive was at Crystal Bay. 20 boats …and of course no Mola Mola. Pretty ridiculous. And it was quite a tough dive with lots of current.

The USS Liberty at Tulamben is still the classic Bali dive - go early in the day if you can. Nusa Penida day trips still run around 900,000-1,200,000 IDR (49-65 EUR) for a 2-dive trip including transport and equipment. The sites can be amazing but manage your expectations around the famous spots.

Photos

Bali surely is picturesque. The rice terraces are beautiful. And during our tours I came across many Kodak moments. But frankly speaking I didn’t have the guts to shoot. Many of these moments involved quite poor people in the rural areas. When walking it’s one thing to secretly take the shot or even ask. But stopping the car with a driver. Pulling out my expensive gear felt so wrong that I just couldn’t do it. Maybe a challenge to overcome such feelings - but this time it just didn’t feel right. So I am afraid my pictures will only show a very limited part of the nice things we came across.

Final Thoughts

This vacation turned out very differently than what we expected. Initially we wanted to travel more. But somehow we just got stuck at the Gaia and don’t even feel sorry about it. This time it was just a different vacation. Not the usual backpacking. But instead it was lots of reading and relaxing. Yoga, meditation and wellness. Many friendly people. A peaceful vacation at a peaceful place.

That advice still holds: spend less time in the crowded southern areas, more time where Bali can breathe. The north around Tejakula remains a good choice for that slower pace.

Marrakech - City of Spice

2009-03-29T00:00:00Z

At the doorstep of Africa. Marrakech is just a few hours from Europe but feels like a different world. The medina’s labyrinth of streets, the call to prayer echoing over terracotta rooftops, the smell of spices and leather mixed with mint tea. This is a city that tingles your senses in the best possible way.

We visited in March. The timing was perfect. Days were warm at 27-30 degrees C. Nights got a bit chilly but OK. We dodged the big heat and the tourist crowds. Both Ryanair and EasyJet have direct flights. After years of various route changes, getting to Morocco is easier than ever.

mosk

Where to Stay

Staying in a riad in the old medina is a must. Hotels outside the walls miss the point entirely. You want to wake up to the sounds of the medina. You want to get lost in those narrow streets.

Picking a place to stay in Marrakech is hard. But just because there are plenty of beautiful options. But prices have increased since my first visit. Now expect to pay 120-180 EUR for a decent double room in 2026. Budget riads start around 80 EUR off season. The sky is the limit for luxury options.

Booking riads was a strange experience. Many asked for a 50% deposits upfront. Some added service charges that feel questionable. Not sure this is still the case. Read some recent reviews before committing. Also, many riads still didn’t accept credit cards. I hope this has or will change soon. But bringing cash is probably not a bad idea either way.

We stayed at Riad Dar Dallah (now 145 EUR per night). Patrick, the French owner, was helpful and welcoming. The location is perfect. Close enough to Jemaa el-Fna to be convenient. Far enough into the labyrinth to be peaceful and quiet. The riad itself was spotless. Traditional architecture with all the modern comforts.

So glad we got picked up from the airport. Seriously. The medina is a maze. You will not find your riad on your own. Most places offer airport transfers for around 20-30 EUR.

Food & Restaurants

Moroccan food is interesting - but it wasn’t our favorite cuisine. The French influence is there but the results are hit and miss.

The food stalls at Jemaa el-Fna are an experience you can’t skip. Yes, you might see questionable hygiene practices. I watched someone pour unfinished dishes back into the pot. But the food was genuinely good. And not every stall does this. Look for busy ones with locals eating. Be brave.

For sit down meals, skip the famous Dar Yacout. Locals say it’s overrated and overpriced. We tried two different options instead. Le Foundouk delivered excellent food in a beautiful setting. The courtyard dining is lovely. Prices are reasonable for what you get. Kosybar has great food but we got terrible service. The rooftop terrace views almost make up for it. Almost.

For a more casual experience, Café des Épices on the spice square is perfect. Sit with a glass of thé à la menthe and watch the world go by. The people watching alone is worth the price.

Tajines and couscous are nice. But if you’re expecting mind blowing cuisine you might be disappointed. The real highlights are the street food and the experience of eating in the medina itself.

What to See

Jemaa el-Fna

The beating heart of Marrakech. A UNESCO World Heritage site that somehow lives up to the hype. By day it’s a market square with orange juice vendors and snake charmers. By night it transforms into an open air food court surrounded by storytellers and musicians.

huddle

Of course it’s touristy. But it’s also genuinely magical at sunset when the food stalls set up and smoke fills the air.

The Souks

North of Jemaa el-Fna lies the souk district. Endless covered markets selling everything imaginable. Lamps, leather goods, spices, carpets, metalwork, shoes, textiles.

Everyone will try to sell you something “for a good price, my friend.” Haggle hard. Starting prices can be 5-10 times the fair value. Locals told us to haggle not just for ourselves but for them too. High tourist prices hurt everyone.

The spice square (Rahba Kedima) is quieter and more photogenic. Less aggressive selling. More actual shopping.

Jardin Majorelle

Take a taxi. It should cost around 5-8 EUR now (was 2 EUR back then!). The garden is worth it despite being touristy.

Jardin Majorelle was designed by French painter Jacques Majorelle and later restored by Yves Saint Laurent. The cobalt blue buildings against the green cacti and bamboo groves are stunning. Go in the afternoon when the light is best. The saturated colors become even more vivid.

Entry is around 15 EUR in 2026. There’s also a small Berber Museum on site if you want to learn more about Morocco’s indigenous culture.

Hammam Experience

A traditional hammam is non negotiable. It’s part of understanding Moroccan culture.

We went to Les Bains de Marrakech. It’s upscale and a little touristy but absolutely worth the money. The full treatment takes a few hours. Expect to pay 80-120 EUR per person for the complete experience including massage. It’s relaxing in a way that’s hard to describe. You leave feeling like a new person.

For a more authentic and cheaper experience, ask your riad about local neighborhood hammams. They’re much more basic but give you a real glimpse into daily Moroccan life.

Other Sights

The Medersa Ben Youssef is a skip unless you’re really into Islamic architecture. The Museum of Marrakech is decent if you have time to spare.

There’s also the Bahia Palace and countless mosques. But honestly, the best thing to see is Marrakech itself. Wander the medina. Get lost in the labyrinth of streets. Dodge the mopeds and bicycles. Smell the leather tanning pits. Watch craftsmen work in tiny workshops. This is what makes Marrakech special.

Day Trips

Spending more than 5 days in Marrakech is too much. The city is intense. You need breaks.

Essaouira

We took a day trip to Essaouira, a coastal town about 2.5 hours away. Buses run regularly and are cheap. We hired a driver for around 80-100 EUR for the day which gave us more flexibility.

Essaouira is the antidote to Marrakech. Relaxed, breezy, whitewashed buildings by the ocean. The medina is walkable and less chaotic. The seafood is fresh. The beaches are nice.

There’s a popular story that Hendrix wrote “Castles Made of Sand” in Essaouira. Given that the was released in 1967, two years before his Morocco trip this sounds unlikely. Another legend claims he planned to buy island just offshore, but there is not evidence of that either.

What’s True: He visited in July 1969. And today, Essaouira embraces the connection. There’s even a small “Jimi Hendrix café” in town, and locals love telling stories about his visit.

It’s a perfect escape from city life. The drive there shows you how green the Moroccan countryside actually is. I expected desert. I got forests and farms.

Atlas Mountains

There are also the Atlas mountains close by. We only barely got a peek from the distance - once. Probably the city haze is to blame. But you can even go skiing in winter at Oukaimeden. In Morocco. Who knew? I personally would have loved to take a trip into the desert and stay there over night.

Mountain villages like Imlil offer hiking and a glimpse of Berber life. Popular tourist routes can be crowded but the scenery seems worth it.

Desert

We didn’t make it to the desert but I wish we had. Overnight trips to the Sahara are popular. You can ride camels, sleep in Berber tents under the stars, and experience the dunes at sunrise.

Tours range from budget to luxury. Expect 2-3 days minimum to make it worthwhile. The journey to Merzouga or Zagora is long but apparently spectacular.

Photography

Marrakech is incredibly photogenic. It’s also incredibly difficult to photograph.

People have a sixth sense for cameras. I have never had so many people tell me verbally or with gestures “No pictures!” ever before. Either that or you are expected to pay for taking the picture. But it is what it is. If someone doesn’t want to be photographed, don’t photograph them.

I also refused to photograph snake charmers, monkeys on leashes, or caged turtles. While I am no animal rights activist this all felt so wrong I didn’t want to support or encourage this.

For architecture and street scenes, early morning and late afternoon have the best light. The souks are dark though. Bring a fast lens or be ready to bump up your ISO.

Practicals

Best time to visit: March-April or October-November. Avoid summer heat and winter chill.

Money: Bring cash euros and exchange at official traders in the medina. You’ll get around 10-11 MAD per EUR in 2026. Credit cards have 3% surcharges on top of your bank’s international fees but ATMs are widely available.

Language: French is common. English less so - but enough in tourist areas. Learn basic Arabic greetings. People appreciate the effort.

Safety: Marrakech is generally safe. Watch for pickpockets in crowded areas. The biggest danger are aggressive touts and merchants.

How long: 4-5 days in Marrakech is enough. Use the rest of your time for day trips and other parts of Morocco.

Marrakech delivers everything you expect from a North African city. The chaos, the colors, the calls to prayer, the mint tea, the haggling. It’s just a few hours from Europe but feels like another world entirely.

Don’t miss it.